Norway’s capital of Oslo is beautiful, walkable, and populous. This city is rich with a myriad of natural wonders, contemporary architecture, and quaint Scandinavian flare. There is a clear commitment to preserve it’s historical culture, maritime fame, and environmental conscience. Despite that, it isn’t easy to avoid the cliche typical sightseer experience. While this may take away from authenticity, the untouchable views breathe local lifeblood into explorer veins.

THE SKINNY

• Bring an umbrella or rain-jacket with a hood
• Learn the T-Bahn to AVOID taxis. (We took a 12 minute taxi that = 50 USD)
• Food is expensive. PERIOD.
  • Book a place with kitchen to cook and save
• T-Bahn stations are different from NSB stations
• So. Much. Construction.
• Service tips are appreciated (10%ish), but not expected
• Fun game for kids if you venture outside the city; count the # of trampolines

ARRIVE

We took Norwegian Air from LAX. Heads up, you need to pre-order your meal on long haul flights with this airline since their prices are so economical. They even charge for water. Luckily, I was conked out 98% of the flight. Although my husband learned this the hard way…he thought the flight attendants just had it out for him. Poor guy.

Our destination airport was Lufthvan Gardermoen.

We immediately hit up the NSB (Norwegian Train Line) in order to purchase our tickets for the famed Norway in a Nutshell tour. Rumor has it that these trains book up at a rapid pace and if you are aiming for certain times to explore, you want to jump on the first opportunity you have to snatch them. Exhibit A: We had to settle for the 625am train instead of the 825am that we originally wanted. Sorry beauty sleep. More on this experience in my post about Aurland/Flam, Norway.

At NSB, we also easily purchased our tickets to city centre. They were only ~$11 each for a 26 minute ride. Many people opt for the FlyToGet tickets, which is essentially the express train to city center. They are double the price. Unless you are in such a hurry that 26 minutes cramps your exploring, the ordinary train works just fine.

STAY

We stayed in the Frogner neighborhood. Centrally located, safe, with a slightly residential feel. Locals consider this area a bit upper-crust. It doesn’t give off a hoity-toity vibe, but after exploring other areas of the city, you can see the difference.

Our Airbnb was inside an ultra modern apartment building filled with street art playfully hidden among the walls amongst clean lines. While many locals did reside within the building, the actual apartment felt more like an Airbnb rental factory since no one appeared to live in it. So, if you are looking for something culturally genuine, we didn’t strike gold. However, it was cozy, clean, and it did the trick.

EXPLORE

Aker Brygge

While it is a development seemingly created for tourists and the rich, the epically modern architecture looming over Oslo’s fjord is pretty spectacular. Here, you can walk along the water and over the bridges while you window-shop or simply take in the views. If you continue to walk all the way to the end, you will find a small “beach” where you can watch the waves crash into the black sand. It is here that you will also get 360 degree views of the fjord’s beauty.

Karl Johans Gate

This is your classic First World city shopping promenade–currently jam packed with Stan Smiths and Warby Parker sunglasses. I’m not a shopper, so my opinion of this street is pretty blah. Check it off your list just because you can, but if you are squeezed for time, there is nothing here that you haven’t seen in any other urban sprawl…unless you’re dying to see what kind of threads H+M touts in Scandinavia.

Oslo Opera House

Truly a work of outstanding artistry that exotically lounges on the water’s edge of Oslo. An exciting labyrinth of shapes that break away from any cookie cutter design. If you walk up to the very top (like everyone else does), you’ll be met with a picture perfect shot of the city. If you are a tripper, you may want to keep your eyes on the ground for divots…you know, from a friend’s personal experience.

Bygdoy Peninsula

There is certainly a reason why this is one of the #1 things to do in Oslo. This is an inexpensive way to get your fix of ferry and culture all in one shot—and the whole family can enjoy. You grab tickets for the “batservice”or boat service directly in front of City Hall. The ferry takes less than 10 minutes and provides views of the magnificent (and eyesore-ful) cruise ships and an ever-shrinking view of Oslo’s waterfront. Try sitting on the right on the way there. If you are snap happy, grab a seat in the back where the window is open. There are two stops on the ferry. However, you can take a sizable walk through a gorgeous, yet quaint residential area to reach each stop. The first one is for the Viking Ship Museum and Maritime Museum…the second stop is where you will find the Kon Tiki Museum and the Fram.

 

We only perused the latter two. Personally, I really enjoyed the Kon-Tiki Museum. While it was kitchy, it was very digestible and I learned a lot about fascinating sea exploration history that I never knew before. My man Thor was dead set on breaking some expedition records.

As for the Fram, I seem to differ from many other people’s high prize view. This museum felt confusing and was a little too chaotic for my liking. While it was neat to explore the ship, It was overshadowed by the crowds.

Akershus Fortress

Located in Oslo’s center and close by the water, this is a beautiful place to discover Norway’s military and royal history. The greens are great for a picnic, but the museums inside are what may feed your appetite even more.

We really enjoyed the small and FREE Military museum next to the actual castle. I’m no military buff, but it was really enlightening to read the parallel conflicts that Norway has engaged in alongside the U.S.A. Very quick and informative.

Many tourists buy tickets to journey inside the royal halls of the palace. Due to time constraints and hangriness, we opted to skip this, but I can imagine that it’s neat to traverse through aristocracy.

Holmenkollen Ski Museet and Zip-Line Jump

When you are at the waterfront of Oslo, you can make out an odd gray shape in the nearby mountain…thats the Holmenkollen Ski Jump! It was opened in 1892 and most recently revamped in 2011. The retro equipment and chronology lesson in the Ski Museum here is all fine and good, but for a stunning Fjord view, it’s worth the trip up! Take the T-Bahn Frognerseteren Line to the Holmenkollen stop and follow signs to the tower. Be sure to sit on the left side to catch the sprawling scenery that opens up as you climb the mountain.

After venturing through the history of skiing and snowboarding, you’ll take a lift up to the top for a dramatic and arresting view. Be sure to turn left and up the stairs when exiting the elevator at the top. Many people turn right and are initially let down by the glassed in views this way. 

For thrill seekers who want to spend an extra 600 Kroner, there is an option to zip-line your way down the ski jump…that’s right. I zipped this puppy and it is a pretty exhilarating journey with breathtaking views! If your nervous, the staff are super friendly and make you feel safe.

Vigeland Sculpture Park

Situated in the middle of Oslo, Vigeland Park is stocked with emotionally charged sculptures from one artist; Gustav Vigeland. Made of cast iron, granite, and bronze; the sculptures are littered throughout one particular area of the park.

A little bit away from this touristy area, you will find quite a lovely park. If you are a runner like myself, it’s a perfect place to explore through the zig zag trails and green space.

GRUB

I’ll bashfully take judgment, but we did not really indulge in any authentic Norwegian fare. Simply put, the prices for food are through the roof and we tried our best to find places that were quick/casual and did not cost us our first born child.

Tacos at a locals

One of my high school friends is from Norway and when he invited us to his apartment for tacos (again, super Norwegian! hah!) and local company, we happily accepted. Most of the locals were flight attendants, so they shared our addiction to travel. They also taught us that most Norwegians eat at home because the price of food is so high. Eating at restaurants was for special occasions.

Dognvill

Apparently there is quite a burger craze hitting Oslo. During our first night in the city, we reached a hangry point and randomly picked this spot amongst the ridiculously $$$ Aker Brygge restaurants. If you are looking for a casual place to soak in the scene, I’d recommend these juicy burgers…certainly not authentic Norwegian.

Nighthawk

This is an old school American diner that our local Oslo friends told us about. The area it is nestled in, Grünerløkka, appears to be gentrifying, which always creates despair and adorable-ness in the same space at the same time. As for the restaurant, the decor is spot on, down to the formica tables, leather booths, and time-period server outfits. If you go, order the Cherry Chocolate Shake. However, the food was just OK here. Don’t go running to it. Maybe do some research and find another restaurant in this hood since it’s filled to the brim with lively cafes and shops.

Steen and Strom

We found an elevated food court in a high-end department store near Karl Johans Gate. We ate lunch here twice because the prices made sense! There are a variety of foods; make your own salad/wrap; thai; soup; burritos; pizza; etc. I recommend if you are trying to save some $.

Three cafes that served yummy coffee:

• Baker Hansen
• Stockfleths
• Joe & The Juice

FOR NEXT TIME:

A few things we didn’t get to cross off the list that we heard positive things about.

• Fjord Tour (We were lucky to explore other Fjords of Norway. If you are sticking with Oslo only, I’d recommend a boat cruise of Oslo Fjord)
• Nobel Peace Museum
• Royal Palace