This is the kind of place that photos can only attempt to capture. Experience the dramatic mountains diving into the Fjord coastline and your awe will not plateau. (See what I did there?)

THE SKINNY: Fast Facts

• Do not wait to book your lodging in Aurland or Flam! There are very limited spaces in hotels, B+Bs, lodging cabins, campgrounds, etc.
• Don’t stay in Flam unless you are super pressed for time or want to cry yourself to sleep (kidding it’s not that bad, just not ideal). Aside from Fjord views, it’s a tourist mecca with no genuine feel. Try Aurland.
• Make your own Norway in a Nutshell tour…it’s OK to go off the itinerary, type A’s!
• Avoid Taxis $$, but be ready to wait for the spread out ferry and bus schedules. (There is a brewery in Flam to support your impatience).
• Tipping is appreciated, but not expected.

ARRIVE: How To Get There

If you found this blog post researching Norway in a Nutshell, you’ve come to the right place! I was in your shoes. I’m an avid planner when it comes to tight itineraries while traveling and I felt like I needed a cigarette after prying for information about this epic and majestic journey through Norway. Basically, you can find out three things; it sells out fast, you can’t purchase tickets online (mail only) AND if you have a Eurail pass, you cannot pre-order at all. I think clever Norway does this on purpose because when you go down this rabbit-hole, you end up wanting to do the trip more than ever since its like an impossibly forbidden fruit.

The typical route that Norway in a Nutshell touts (can be backwards).

• Train from Oslo –> Myrdal on NSB
• Train from Myrdal –> Flam on Flamsbana (the star of the show)
• Ferry from Flam –> Gundvaggen via
• Bus from Gundvaggen –> Voss via Skyss
• Train from Voss –> Bergen via NSB

You can buy all of the train tickets at any NSB station–which is typically located at the central train station or the airport. You can buy the bus tickets ON the bus. We bought our train tix right when we landed in Oslo at the airport. We didn’t get our first timing picks for Oslo –> Myrdal OR Myrdal –> Flam. HOWEVER, I previously read reports about this and then proceeded to act it out; ask the NSB conductor if you can jump on (if you have a differently timed ticket). They will say that seats are assigned and that you may have to stand, but we found there to be a lot of empty seats. This goes for the Flamsbana one as well.

Like I mentioned, you can toy around with the route. Below is our Nutshell…the route we created (in pictures and summary):

1. Train from Oslo –> Myrdal on NSB

SEAT TIP: Both sides offered spectacular views, but I felt like the right side provided a little more scenic love. Also, make sure you aren’t at the end of a cart because you might have a luggage rack blocking your viewpoint to the other side. I personally sacrificed the right side view so that I could deliver this travel tip.

LOW DOWN: Nobody really warns you that this route is just as scenic and dramatic as the Flamsbana railway. It feels like you are watching a play in which the backdrop is changing from season to season. Fjords, Mountains, Lakes, Sunshine, and even snow at one point! In August. I almost enjoyed the views and comfort level on this stretch more than the famed Myrdal –> Flam leg.

2. Train from Myrdal –> Flam on Flamsbana

SEAT TIP: Try sitting on the left, although the right is where you can awe at the most incredible waterfall.

LOW DOWN: The Flamsbana line feels like a DisneyWorld ride. There is magic not only in the charm of the railway, but in the stunning backdrops of sweeping green mountains and powerful waterfalls. BUT just like every tourist hot-spot; there is a feeling of chaos and anxiety. Not every rider got a seat. AND every other person had a Nikon or Canon around their neck, ready to shoot the next scene and take over their window to get that perfect capture. I’m a lover of photography, but I’m not sure if some of them even took a breath and just engaged with the amazingness one on one.

 

 

3. 10 person Fjord Safari Boat Tour/Hike (instead of Ferry)

We opted to do this in order to get more personalized and adventurous experiences of the Sognefjord, Aurlandsfjord, and Nærøyfjord. The typical ferry is a large vessel that takes you (along with all the other tourists) through these Fjords to Gudvangen. If you are pressed for time, DO THIS. Regardless of where you are on the Fjord…the views are just insane. However, if you can swing the Fjord Tour…DO IT. DETAILS in the EXPLORE section.

4. Bus from Flam –> Bergen

This straightaway bus seemed easiest for us instead of taking a train and bus. It was also more economical. Again, the views were breathtaking…but I was almost ungrateful for them since I was Fjord-ed out. No Wi-Fi, but comfy seats. Buses are not frequent, so be sure to view schedule to understand when you need to be at the bus stop.

Stay

We stayed at the Aurland Fjord Hotel. First, how we got there. Then, some Pros and Cons. Lastly, I also added some other lodging options.

When one arrives in Flam, one would assume that there would be a taxi rank because the world is your oyster. There isn’t. We had to wait about 1 hour and a half to catch a bus that was less than a 10 minute ride. (Again, Norwegian taxis aren’t worth it! This would’ve been 40+ bucks if we somehow found one.)

Pros:

• Below is a shot from our window even though we had the “economy room”. The view is worth one million dollars. I believe that the upgraded rooms have balconies and front-facing views of the fjord. Just gorgeous.
• The staff is friendly. When we needed a taxi to Flam, we asked a server at breakfast and she offered to drive us for a reduced price. Really sweet woman!
• They have an option for “breakfast included” which is a lifesaver in Moneybags Norway. It’s edible.

Cons:

• The actual hotel value shouldn’t even hit the 100s. However, they are literally the only hotel in Aurland! (AND they know the view is priceless, so they hike up the price.
• There is no lift. This wasn’t an issue for us at all, but for the physically handicapped or elderly– be aware.
• Also, there is no AC/heat which would be fine if there were screens on the windows and no wildlife. So your choice is to sweat OR have bees in your room. We lost some weight that night.

Some other lodging options that we learned about were:

• Camping
• Cabins – if you aren’t as adventurous as a camper, these cabins are apparently “glamping” status with wi-fi and the luxuries of any other accommodation.
• Stigen Farm – A farm built into a singular hillside of the Fjord. The only way to get there is by ladder and hike. They say that back in the day they would remove the ladder when the tax guy paid a visit. pretty clever. To score this gem, you need to plan WAY in advance. 2016 is already sold out completely.

EXPLORE: What To Do

Let’s ride through this visually:

1. Find a trail to hike or just walk around. There are so many sights to see and wild to explore. We didn’t have time for the viewpoints that are touted throughout Flam and Aurland, so I can’t speak for them, but I cannot imagine that a viewpoint of this would let you down.

 

2) Fjord Safari Hike through http://www.flamguide.no/

First, you get stylish. They provide suits to help you stay warm (lifesaver with the cold!)

Then, you ride for little over an hour through the Fjord on an open-air raft/boat and you take in the honestly sensational views of the mountains diving into the dazzling Fjord.

In one spot, you are smack dab in the middle of where all three Fjords meet and it’s just.. a trifecta of unforgettable.

We saw wildlife from the boat, too! Porpoises, Seals, and an Eagle!

We also passed by this absolutely charming town of Undredal. 100 people, 500 goats…population control. If you have a chance, visit, because this village looks like it is ripped from the pages of a fairytale.

Then, we park and take what the company labeled as an “Easy” hike. I did see a friend run out of breath several times (5 and counting), but I do feel like they should’ve gone with a more conservative “Medium” label. Seriously though, someone with back/leg issues or not-so-fit visitors might find this difficult.

The group hikes all the way up the mountain to Leim Goat Farm. You pass babbling brooks, graceful waterfalls and wild green spaces…all with the beautiful Fjord view behind you (if there is no fog!).

I love cheese so much that I consider myself 1/2 mouse, so the next stop was pretty damn delightful. Here, the lovely staff take you on a journey through the goat cheese making process. Then, you are treated to an absolutely fresh and delicious spread of cheeses and salads. THEN, as if you aren’t already in queso heaven, they serve fluffy pancakes with brown goat cheese! To warm you up, they serve French Press coffee and herbal infused tea before you take the hike back down for the drive back and consequent end to a fascinating day.

 

Yums the word

 

If this tour was a paper, I’d give it a 98%. Especially because the guides are friendly, funny, and VERY local (one of the guides’ family legit owned the farm). They get 2% off for not being able to control the weather. We all can’t be perfect.

GRUB: Where to Eat

Flam: Hit up the brewery. The beer isn’t out of this world, but it’s a neat ambience and great place to relax.

 

Aurland: There is only 1 restaurant in Aurland. Don’t go! It’s so expensive. This pizza was 30 USD! Go to the Spar, the only supermarket, and buy food so that you and your wallet don’t cry into your pepperoni.