The dazzling Danube River cuts right through the middle of Budapest, creating two distinct and equally essential parts of the city; Buda and Pest. The Buda side is calm–offering a majestic castle reminiscent of the Ottoman Empire, rolling green hills, and a classic, cobblestoned Old Town. Meanwhile, the Pest side is lively–packed with tree-lined avenues, architecture that crumbles with charm, and an eclectic mix of trendy and old-school restaurants intermingling side by side. After meandering thoroughly through either side, the seemingly accidental romance and eccentricity of this city will definitely leave you mystified.
THE SKINNY:
- Want to be like a local, even though you are sporting that massive DSLR around your neck? It’s pronounced Boo-da-PESHT.
- Stay on the Pest side for easy access to a wider variety of restaurants/attractions.
- Don’t take a taxi unless you absolutely need to; there is an unfortunate issue with scamming here.
- Come Hungary (sorry…) and try Langos!
- DO check two things off your bucket list: Bath House and Ruin Bar.
- Customary to tip 10-15%, but check the bill first for an added service charge.
EXPLORE:
Since Budapest is so massive, I’ve broken down the tackled attractions by AREA after my standard “Stroll Around” suggestion; BUDA / PEST: INNER CITY CENTER / PEST: OUTER CITY CENTER / GOING THE DISTANCE.
Stroll Around
I can only imagine how astonishing it is to find out that we jumped on a free walking tour in this city. Recommended by our Airbnb host, we went with United Europe Free Tours. Not the most lively tour guide we’ve ever had, but certainly informative, friendly and definitely local.
We weaved throughout Pest, passing attractions like St. Stephen’s Basilica, Gresham Palace, and the Academy of Hungarian Sciences.
Then, we headed across the Chain Bridge over the Danube into Buda; trekking up Castle Hill and capturing Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion. Above, you will find some shots of the bolded buildings – they are worth a visit, but we didn’t engage any further than hearty eye-oogling.
This walking tour is a really great way to orient yourself to the city of Budapest and I highly recommend it. If you aren’t into walking tours, weave on your own! This city is just so unusually eclectic and you can only begin to appreciate that after a healthy stroll.
AREA: BUDA
Gellert Hill
When walking the Danube, your eyes flow down the river to the very end, where you cannot help but notice the end of man and the beginning of nature. A vast and lush green hill protrudes from the water, hosting a stoic-looking statue perched on the very top. This is Gellert Hill. The statue is an ode to bishop St. Gerard, who was put in a barrel and rolled to his death from this hill during the Great Pagan Rebellion of 1046. Romantic hill, not so romantic story.
To get there by foot, walk to the Buda side of the clean-lined Elizabeth bridge. You will find a waterfall cascading down a mossy exterior, fighting for tranquility amongst the traffic. Here is where you start climbing (either side!) On your way up, don’t forget to look out at the splendid views of the city.
The climb is a stair-master session set to level 5, so if you have mobility issues, you can always take bus number 27 from Moricz Zsigmond Circus (Körtér).
You’ve reached the top when the Citadel and statues come into view. It is here where you must soak up an absolutely terrific panorama of the city; which includes the lavish Castle Hill looming over the Danube. It’s quite busy up here, but well worth it.
With a tinge of jealousy since we learned this after the fact, I report to you that the most optimal time to catch the views are sunrise or sunset.
The Chain Bridge
Szechenyi Lanchid is the most famous connection between Buda and Pest.
The idea came to life when Hungarian Count Szechenyi was stranded on the Pest side during a very inopportune time. In Vienna, his father had passed and the pontoon bridge was frozen over. He vowed to construct a better way. It took 50 years, but in 1849, construction was complete. However, history nerds, don’t get too excited about crossing a 150+ year old bridge because the Nazis destroyed it during World War II. Fortunately, it was rebuilt to resemble the original, so 50+ years resembling 150+ is just as impressive!
Buda HILL & Castle
On the Pest side of the Danube, one is captivated and enthralled by the grandeur of this castle as it rises over the river. Don’t just stand there, though…visit it!
Once over the chain bridge and in Clark Adam Square, you have a decision to make. Take the funicular or walk up to Castle hill. While funiculars can be fun, I recommend to walk! It only takes about 20 minutes and it isn’t strenuous at all.
The castle is now home to the Budapest History Museum and National Gallery. We did not indulge in either, but simply walking around and through the castle offers ornate and historical art free of charge. Consider wandering to the Presidential Palace on the castle grounds to watch a very humble changing of the guards. The front of this palace offers spectacular views of Pest on the Danube. The backside doesn’t disappoint either; offering views of the rolling Buda hills, dotted with green and colorful buildings.
We lucked out like crazy because there was a Wine Festival being held at the castle the week that we were visiting. It was a royal tasting to say the least!
MATTHIAS Church & Fisherman’s Bastion
Continuing on from Castle Hill, you will stroll through a classic, historic Old Town.
The stroll is charming, but forgettable once you meet a magnificent church with the most unusually unique roofing. The exterior is a bright and clean white, which makes the colorful diamond-shape roof tiles pop! The design actually reminds me of those bead patterns that your mom would iron for you in the 90s. Anyone with me on that comparison?
Behind the church rests the Fisherman’s Bastion. This “fortification” seems a little too elegant looking to have been used as any sort of defense; which is exactly why it never truly was. This fancy terrace was built around 1900 to celebrate Hungary’s 1000th anniversary. We were advised by a local not to buy entrance tickets because the view on the top level is just as stunning as the one on the bottom.
AREA: Pest INNER CITY
The Danube
The essential artery of Budapest runs gracefully through the city. It seemed like the closer and closer you walked to the riverfront, surroundings receive a bigger and bigger injection of beauty; from buildings, to signs, to streets…even sewer lids. I highly recommend to stroll along this riverfront. Also, if you have time and the weather is right, grab a glass of wine at one of the few bars with a view.
shoes on the danube Holocaust Memorial
While you are walking along the Danube on the Pest side, chances are that you will scattered shoes will come into view. During World War II, Jews were ordered to line up along the river and remove their shoes. Here, they were shot so that their bodies would be carried away by the river. These bronze shoes represent what was left behind. A very quiet, yet very powerful Holocaust memorial.
Parliament
From every angle of the Danube, this Neo-gothic building dominates. It commands. Up close, it continues to define greatness. Even at night, the Parliament illuminates and steals the show. It truly is a work of art that you must see for yourself! We didn’t go inside, but there are very popular guided tours. If the inside is anything like the exterior, I can imagine it is worth it.
PINBALL MUSEUM
With a constant flick of the wrist, your “flipper” skills will be put the test in this pinball paradise. Pay about $10 USD at the door and get nostalgically lost in any fantasyland of your choosing. Direct your pinballs through scenes deriving from Tales from the Crypt, The Twilight Zone, Family Guy, and even The Rolling Stones. It’s pretty astonishing to see just how many machines have been produced the past 100 years. You can even try your luck on multiple machines made in the 1930’s. Even if you aren’t a “gamer”, you can easily spend over 2 hours in this place and not even realize how much time has gone by.
Note: Similar to the game of pinball, you need a little bit of strategy and stroke of luck to find this place. Be sure to know the exact cross streets. On the south side of the street, you’ll come across a small (possibly closed door) with an unassuming sign in Hungarian. That’s it! Oh, and on Monday this door is closed for good, so don’t think you’re missing some sort of pinball password for entrance.
Erzsébet tér / Elizabeth Square
If the season is kind and your young-at-heart, have a picnic in this park! It is the largest green area in the inner city. People-watching here is a great way to get a feel for the local energy.
Andrassy (Ut) Avenue
This avenue is quite the exquisite show-horse as it displays the at times Parisian-looking facades of world-renowned architects. Andrassy hosts world-wide embassies, luxury shopping, distinguished museums, and gated mansions with manicured lawns. Linking Elizabeth Square with Heroes Square, a stroll down this avenue is a smart way to tackle the attractions found around both areas.
AREA: PEST OUTER CITY CENTER
Heroes Square
At the very end of Andrassy Avenue, a massively spacious square welcomes you to the City Park. The main statue structure depicts the Seven Chieftans of the Magyars, the Hungarians who first arrived in the area in the 7th century. It’s no surprise that this area has been the host of multiple political events.
Szechenyi Bath
Go to a bath house, they said. It has healing waters, they said.
Every read on Budapest urged me to have the Hungarian Bath House experience. After proper indoctrination, It was something I needed to cross off my list.
We went to none other than the Szechenyi Bath located in City Park. This is the most popular choice amongst foreigners, so if you choose to embark on this experience too, know that you will be truly embracing your inner tourist.
Although you can rent all of these essentials, bring a bathing suit and towel. You have a choice between a “cabana” and a locker. The cabana is basically a glorified closet that allows you to change in private and stow large belongings. The locker is a small cubby that allows you to store smaller personal items.
Once we stepped outside to the great pool, my emotions were so mixed! I was in awe at the grandeur, slight disgust at the cesspool, and mystified by the popularity. Essentially, the outside is like a Vegas Pool Party without the DJ, drunks, and focus on booze.
After an extended dip in the massive pool with 1,000 of your closest friends, don’t forget to go inside! you will find a wide array of spa pools varying in temperatures and sizes.
Did this feel like a tourist trap? Sure! But sometimes you have to flaunt your tourist self.
Vajdahunyad Castle (Vajdahunyadvar)
If you aren’t pressed for time when visiting Heroes Square or Szcheizynl Bath, take a lovely stroll along the lakeside and the grounds of Vajdahunyad Castle. It’s history only dates back to 1896 since it was constructed during Hungary’s Millennium Celebration in 1896. Look closely and you can spot multiple different eras of architecture since the artist intentionally mixed-and-matched inspirations from different Hungarian landmarks.
Ethnography Museum
Rain and my nerding-out for ethnography motivated us to hit up this museum. Inside, we were pleasantly surprised by some truly marvelous architecture. The first exhibition that we explored was a temporary one on an African tribe. Though small, it was an interesting trip.
Then, we found the massive permanent exhibit; an extremely thorough history of the people and culture of Hungary. So thorough that it was too thorough, if you know what I mean.
I wish I could say more positive things about this museum, especially since I am fascinated by culture, but I wouldn’t go rushing back…
Margaret Island
“Have I got the place for you!” claimed our Airbnb host after we mentioned we liked to run. He wasn’t messing around. Margaret Island is a runner’s paradise situated on the middle of the Danube. A path made out of cushy track material runs along the water and around the island for about 5.5km.
Luckily, you don’t have to be Usain Bolt to enjoy Margaret Island in all it’s glory. Prowl around this green space and you’ll find a quirky zoo, a musical fountain, and a rose garden.
You’ll also find some interesting eccentricities that leave you asking yourself about the history and development of the island…Are these beach clubs deserted? What happened to this run-down arena? Does this family of cats enjoy their dilapidated volleyball court as a home?
AREA: GOING THE DISTANCE
Buda Hills Lift Chair/ Libegő
Recommended by a local, the Buda Hills lift chair is a bit of a hike to get to, but well worth the time if you have it. To emphasize the worthiness, it was our favorite thing that we did during our stay. In total, including transportation from Deli Pukyavar station and back, it takes a minimum of 2 hours.
If you are facing the train station from the street, you catch the #291 bus outside to the left. Take it all the way until the last stop. You’ll see the chair lift entrance once you hop off.
You wont be surprised to learn that the lift was built in the 70s, but it feels relatively safe (once you survive). Kidding, it’s really not bad at all! It’s about a 15 minute ride up and the views keep getting better and better—offering you a sweeping panorama of Budapest.
Once off the chair at the top, you are initially met with a small shop, trail-heads, and a track running path through the woods. You also have the option of climbing up a bit more to a fort that offers 360* views. Go! I accounted this into the time. Just get ready to share the views with a galaxy of bees.
GRUB:
Ruin Bar
Not so fast! I’m not illegally parking this Budapest Travel Guide sans Ruin Bar. If you enjoy a general bar, you just have to experience a Ruin Bar. They are Hungarian Hipster, constructed before Hipster was even a word. A quick word to the confused: These are bars built out of abandoned buildings, parking lots, or stores. They are decorated with unusually off-center art; .i.e. Pig Pinatas floating above dance floors. We went to Insta and it was a good time. Below is the only artifact from the night.
Spoon
There are 3 requirements to dining at Spoon: You are feeling romantic, your wallet is feeling giving, and you are a sucker for ambiance when it comes to restaurants (guilty). The dishes are presented gorgeously and the ingredients are fresh. The views of Castle Hill and Chain Bridge lit up at night are pretty spectacular.
Drum Cafe
It may have a slight tourist vibe, but we ate here with our native Budapest friend–who suggested and approved it’s authenticity. Local or not, what really matters is our level of hunger happiness and it reached pretty close to 100%. We gobbled down Langos, which might sound elegant, but it’s so not…but that’s what makes it damn beautiful. It’s actually sour cream and cheese on fried dough. I KNOW…genius. Since Hungary is known for Paprika, we obviously had to represent…so we also went to town on some Chicken Paprikash with Spaetzle.
Cirkusz
Delicious brunch food with a side of your favorite type of espresso. Not a fan of breakfast? Cirkusz has Hungarian dishes as well, i.e. hearty and tasty Goulash.
ARRIVE:
We took the 952am train from Prague and arrived in Budapest Keleti Station around 430pm. We lucked out with our own cart, although it was a pretty crowded route. Our place was walking distance from this station, but if yours is not, the metro and tram system in Budapest is ridiculously easy to get a hang of if you are a graduate of Metro 101.
STAY:
It’s especially difficult to pick a base area in a city that offers such an array of interesting neighborhoods. After some research, I decided to go with the district of Józsefváros because I was a fan of it’s central location and it sounded like it was in the midst of a revival that I wanted to be apart of. During our stay, I realized that I may have jumped on the revival train a little too early, especially when our native friend called our area “dodgy”. The physical location is awesome for walkability and nightlife. However, the mostly ruinous and industrial buildings gave it such an ugly vibe compared to the graceful architecture found in the Inner City.
As for our actual AirBnB pad, it was one of our favorite set-ups. The decor was ridiculously fun with playful wall messages strewn throughout. Both the kitchen and bathroom felt modern and spacious enough for the price point. The bedroom was lofted, which allowed for more living space, which was also a comfy and livable space.