Countries within Communist Europe and the war-torn Balkan area all seemed to have climbed out of their respective despair with very distinct scars. But not Ljubljana…she is different. Seemingly unscathed by the cold side of history, the past is conveyed with grace—through a charming cobblestoned Old Town awash with seriously splendid architecture. Heritage abound, this city is far from antiquated – it is forward-thinking and modern. Vibrant alfresco cafes line the bank of the emerald-colored Ljubljanica River; which slices through the city-center in such an elegant way. For an even fresher perspective, meticulous cleanliness along with expansive green areas earned Ljubljana the coveted Green Capital of Europe award for 2016. This inconceivable cross between old and new is all watched over by a hilltop castle which is visible from almost every angle of the city.

EXPLORE

Free Walking Tour (or stroll around)

Since Ljubljana lives and breathes without flashy touristy flare, there are many hidden gems with fascinating stories that you’d stroll right by if you didn’t have a local at your service. A walking tour is your best bet in a small city that you are tackling for 48 hours or less. Through this 2 hour journey, we stumbled across different sites that make Ljubljana unique. At each stop, we were showered with historic and modern tales that injected meaning into statues, bridges, and markets.  After some Ljubljana life pictures, I’ll detail some stops that I approve! 

 

The famous Slovenian poet Preseren is memorialized by statue in this square. The muse in this statue is topless, which was quite controversial when it was erected–especially for it’s proximity to the Pink Church. After attempts by the priest to cover her up with cloth, they ended up planting three birch trees in front of the sculpture to block the nudity from churchgoers! Old-school censorship, ladies and gentleman!

THREE BRIDGES

When the buggy revolution rolled into Ljubljana, many locals were frustrated with sharing the bridge into Old Town with four-wheeled monsters. To address the bottleneck problem, they built two foot-bridges right next to the main bridge. Humorously enough, they completely banned traffic within this area years later…so now pedestrians can really switch it up each time while walking over the Ljubljanica river.

Dragon Bridge

Throughout my travels, I’ve learned a lot about the conflict between fire and the people. The wooden bridge that used to stand here continuously burned down. Until they installed this protective dragon (and finally used stone for the bridge). This dragon is Ljubljana’s emblem-symbolizing strength, unity, and might. It’s apparent origins derive from the famous Legend of Jason and the Argonauts.  Ljubljana was the very marsh that Jason killed a dragon as he fled pursuers on a heroic journey. Still trying to piece together why a dead dragon would symbolize a thriving city, but everyone deserves a mascot!

Love Lock Bridge

What European city isn’t complete without a Love Lock bridge?

ST. NICOLAS’S CHurch (Ljubljana cathedral) 

Nearby the market, you’ll notice baroque frescos lining concrete walls. Look up and you will find an octagonal dome and two identical belfries. This is St. Nicholas’s Church.

Take a peak at the wildly intricate bronze doors of this church which portray Slovenia’s religious history. Then, take a free step inside and marvel at the arched ceilings lined with frescos that pop next to the surrounding white crown molding–all centering around a lavish gold chandelier.

Central Market

Blooming bouquets and fresh fruit pack the stalls of Ljubljana’s Central Market. This bustling outdoor marketplace has everything you can imagine; from cured meats to handicrafts to chocolates.  Most importantly, one of the stalls serve up some delightfully crunchy sauerkraut. I would know because during the walking tour, we were able to sample some! The bag made its round to me twice, so I graciously accepted a double dip. 

A part of the market, but along the river, you’ll find “Plečnik’s Covered Market”; which includes two levels of authentic, local food shops. Think: butchers and fish-mongers!

Hours: M-F 6a-6p, Saturday 6a-4p Sundays closed

Congress Square 

This massive square is a perfect (and commonly used) meeting place for political or celebratory gatherings. Packed with tall trees and plenty of benches; it is also surrounded by significant city buildings. Here, you can stumble across Ljubljana University, the Ursuline Church of the Holy Trinity and Slovenian Philharmonic.

One last word on the walking tour. We really lucked out with our guide on this tour since he had his Masters in Architecture. Aside from delivering such a detailed history on each building, he also taught us about Ljubljana’s famed architect Joze Plecnik, who mastered many of the gorgeous designs throughout the city.  Excuse me while I geek out through photos that capture the level of architecture 411 that he bestowed on us.

—————————

LjublJana Castle

The city’s castle is perched on a hilltop that overlooks all of Ljubliana. To visit, you can take the funicular, drive, or hike up. We opted to hike to work off our time at Union Brewery. It’s about 15 minutes uphill, so definitely a nice little glute workout!

When you arrive to the foot of the castle, you are greeted by really stunning views of the city.

Entrance over the moat and into the castle comes at a fee depending on what exhibits or activities you want to partake in. We were most interested in climbing the tower, so a basic entry fee was 7.50 euro.

The medieval gates open up to a clean-lined courtyard that provides entry to a slew of attractions, including a lovely little restaurant. Typically, I would not use lovely to describe a restaurant within a tourist trap. However, a local informed us that it is quite yummy.

The history of the hilltop spans all the way back to an ancient community that settled in the marshes of the river. You can learn about it by watching a “Virtual Castle” video that comes with your ticket up the tower. If you aren’t fascinated by cultural history, though, you may want to skip this. (My husband fell asleep mid-lesson, earning a swift F in history).

Up some winding red stairs and you will reach the tower outlook. This circular landing offers 360 degree views of Ljubliana’s orange rooftops, followed by lush green, sloping right into the Julian Alps. Well worth the climb.

After the look-out, the most notable exhibit was a photography one sponsored by NatGeo which included some really splendid shots!

If you have extra time, explore the grounds around the castle…they are really lovely.

GRUB

Pivovarna Union

Pivovarna Union is a colossal brewery (now owned by Heineken) in Ljubljana. Our Airbnb host recommended we go there to check out the local vibe and beers. There’s a charming courtyard for outdoor seating in the front, but there was a wee bit of rain, so we opted for the inside. It was very lively for a weekday. Mostly locals were seated in booths, high-tops, and regular tables with a surprisingly modern decor as the backdrop. There were a variety of beers and I went for the Pivnica Union which was crisp and smooth! The food was OK, but i’d recommend going elsewhere to chow down. If you aren’t pressed for time, I’d suggest a brew stop at Pivovarna.

Backwerk

Great pit-stop to pick up a take-away coffee or quick bite. Think: Slovenia’s 7-11.

Aroma

Awesome outside dining vibe in the heart of Ljubljana, but the food and service could definitely improve a bit.

ARRIVE:

Like many, we arrived by Arriva bus from Lake Bled, Slovenia. The bus/train station are walking distance from most neighborhoods in this compact city. If you are flying, I’d recommend public transport to this hub in order to save money.

STAY:

This incredible apartment via Airbnb made it even harder to part with this city. It was in a great location–tucked away in a quiet, residential area between Tivoli Park and Congress Square. Spacious,  modern, and affordable–I’d recommend this to anyone and everyone (with 2 guests) looking for accommodation in Ljubljana.