When you arrive in the land of Italian Giants, you are instantly in awe. Everywhere you look, lush green trees naturally flow into spectacular rock formations that tower above. Each uniquely enormous mountain tells it’s own beautiful story of erosion. The myriad of colors that slope down from these natural creatures range from the whitest whites to a gorgeous shade of hunter green. Charming and chic après-ski villages are scattered throughout this rightfully claimed UNESCO Heritage site; breathing adventurous energy and mountain life into this natural wonder.

SKINNY

• Don’t assume that you will easily come across hiking paths, entrances and paths are not marked well at all.
• The weather is SO fickle in the fall (I was there Mid-September). Don’t drive far unless you are pretty sure that it will be clear. There are plenty of nearby hikes that offer equally stunning views.
• If you are here for hiking, best bet is to rent a car. If you are strapped for cash, we did see that public transportation was available.
• Don’t rely solely on your GPS to get you to trail-heads. It might, say…bring you to a shed on the side of the road. Research landmarks/directions via blogs OR buy a guide book with trail maps.

STAY:

CORTINA D’ AMPEZZO

If you’ve ever wondered where chic Italians escape to during the winter-time, I’ve found it. Nestled in the Dolomite Mountains is an après-ski gem called Cortina D’ Ampezzo. Centered around a cobblestone lane that is riddled with high-end shops; this skiing village is littered with Swiss chalet hotels, Authentic Italian restaurants, and is perfect as a cozy base for exploring the Dolomites.

HOTEL MONTANA

Helpful staff. Breakfast Included. Severely outdated, but it did the trick. I wouldn’t go rushing back, but it’s a fine option if you aren’t interested in glitz and glam.

EXPLORE

DRIVING AROUND

As we drove from origin to destination throughout the Dolomite area, we came across some absolutely magnificent views. Some were so fleeting because of the twists and turns in the road, but even if seen for just a second, their beauty had the power to take your breath away and truly leave an imprint. Some views were so stunning that we had to turn around, pull over, and get out of the car to get a closer and longer look…and check if it was real! I recommend the same to you if you are exploring this area. Don’t rush! The mountains are meant for gliding, even outside of ski season! Here are some shots from unplanned stops:

TRE CIME

Down in the Cortina Valley in Mid-September, there was a slight chill in the air. A brisk 35 degrees Fahrenheit if you will. So, Henry and I layered up for our Tre Cime hike. Since this particular trip was spontaneous and amidst a lengthy Euro-tour mid-summer, we didn’t really have the best gear to sport. And when I say we didn’t have the best gear, I mean I had running shoes and Lululemon work-out pants. This wasn’t Milan though, so whose going to judge us in the middle of the mountains?

Once we reached the parking lot, we simultaneously assessed the scene, looked at each other, and laughed hysterically. The hoards of hikers unloading from their cars looked like they were straight out of an REI magazine for mountaineering. Brightly colored down jackets, insulated gloves, and shiny trekking poles dotted the unloading zone. At least we could get a coffee in the Rifugio house. After warming up with a cup of Joe, we decided to attempt to at least get our moneys worth by trekking as long as we could. We figured we could last at least 20 minutes, 1 dollar a minute for the parking fee, hah!

While the wind whipped crisp air at us, it wasn’t cold enough to distract from the absolutely immaculate views off the trail, which is carved alongside the mountains. Even at the beginning, your eyes slide along the colorful ridges and slopes of the valley, magnetized towards a bright emerald lake in the distance. Throughout every turn, hikers were gifted a new view of the Dolomiti giants confidently looming at every angle. The low-hanging gloom wasn’t the best for photography, but the way the mountains pierced through the fog was pretty neat.  At this time of year (Mid September), bright snow was powdered on just about everything and it really felt like we were in some sort of winter wonderland painting.

The main event of this hike is the sight of Tre Cime, which consists of three stupendously jagged mountain sisters that not only tower side by side, but also tower over you as you hike the slopes below.

How to get there: Off SS48 you will find that the road to Tre Cime comes at a steep price. 20 Euro to pass through the pearly toll booth. Contemplating whether or not you should park before the gates and simply walk? Stick it to the Dolomite Man? Unfortunately, the trail head is miles away and uphill, so fork over the cash and drive through. Follow the road past farm fields, a lake, and a massive lot with Rifugio De Laverado. Continue on this road as it winds up the mountain. You’ll literally drive right into the parking lot at the top, situated next to Rifugio De Auronzo.

TRE CROCI PASS

It was our intention to hike to Lago de Sorrapis—this unforgettable lake tucked away in National Park. And I say intention because this is where I learned about the failure of assuming in the Dolomites…or maybe it’s the failure of relying on Rhonda, our GPS. She brought us to a shed on the side of the road that was trailhead-less. Freaking Rhonda. The maps they give you at hotels resemble the Marauders Map from Harry Potter. While I am a huge HP fan, roadless maps don’t really help a sister out. We realized we would have to forget the unforgettable lake. It was a clear day and we were strapped for time, so we decided to seize the day and find a random trail-head. We found one marked 203 and went for it.

At the start, the trail is surrounded by tall, lush trees. Then, you reach an opening that shows you tops of trees that look like they go on for miles! Behind them, rises the giants once again. Down the side of a mountain, you reach a quarry filled with white rocks and a peaceful waterfall that flows into it. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves!

PASSO DE GIAU 

I have jumped out of planes, flown off cliffs, and swum with sharks…but there is one thing that always forces me into a fetal position and that is driving on narrow mountain switch-backs. Enter Giau Pass. Giau Pass is a high mountain pass that is connected to Cortina D’ Ampezzo down below. It offers sweeping views as you wind up and up the mountainside.

In the beginning of your journey, car lover or not, you can’t help but notice a Lamborghini zoom past you. A minute or two later, two Porsches fly down. A few after that, you have a Ferrari almost in the trunk of your car itching to get in front of your Alfa Romeo going 25km/h. It is then that you realize that this is a sports-car enthusiast or speed-junkies heaven. They venture from different parts of Austria, Germany, and Italy to play on this pass with their friends. Some of them even had GoPros attached to the top of their cars! In contrast, it was my nightmare! Look, I don’t regret the adventure up or down at all because, well…I survived.

Most importantly, the view from the top was WELL worth the risk of being beaten up by a man in a leather Masserati jacket who snapped because our rental car hardly chugged past the speed limit. Here, you are met with a vast mountain pasture set at the foot of the outstanding mountain formation Nuvolau or dell’Averau. Peak towards the west to catch outstanding views of Pale di San Martino, Marmolada, and Piz Boe. Glance back to where you came from and you might catch Tofano, Pomagagnon, and Cristallo. Really impressive!

There appeared to be trails up here, but we did this at the end of the day, so I have no information on them. If you are going up the pass for the experience and peak views, I would allow yourself about one hour to do this.

ALPE DI SIUSI or SIESER ALM

While “best coffee in town” raises my suspicion, I am admittedly a sucker for words like FASTEST! TALLEST! when traveling. On top of that, our close friends had strongly recommended a visit to Alpe di Siusi – the LARGEST high altitude Alpine meadow in all of Europe! Even though it was a 3 hour drive from Cortina, we agreed that it seemed like a worthy adventure.

The drive from Cortina to Alpe is such a neat way to experience the expanse of the Dolomites. I was blown away with just how many charming ski villages existed here…and just how many of them went in on a bundle deal to buy the same exact church. We counted 17 identical cobblestone churches with a red spire on this ride. On this ride, we also pieced together the significance of history and territory. Dependent on the signs and architecture, one minute you felt like you were in Austria and the next, Italy.

Remember how I mentioned the fickle weather? We learned this the hard way. The day seemed relatively clear when we left Cortina, but when we finally got to the Sieser Alm ski lift, the clouds looked a bit ominous. At the very modern station, equipped with bathrooms and a restaurant, you pay 8 euro round-trip to ride up to the meadow in large, enclosed ski gondolas. We got a gondola to ourselves which was nice, but I’m assuming the people who stayed elsewhere that day knew something we did not. As we climbed up and up, we faced really beautiful views of the valley. However, our cheer dissipated when the clouds grew darker and the rain came.

At the top, you are met with an adorable mountain town with shops, restaurants, and incredibly marked trail routes. Our original plan was to tackle the 1h 15m hike from Compatsch, which is where you are dropped off. Unlike other areas of the Dolomites, the trails here are marked perfectly with timing/difficulty labels as well! We were determined to attempt this trail despite the weather. As we trekked through the meadow, it was raining pretty hard and many of the mountain views were unseeable due to the fog. This put a damper on our spirits and we only made it about 45 minutes through the hike before turning around. When I used my imagination from what I could make out, it was easy to infer that this place is absolutely stunning on a clear day. It was definitely a place we could’ve easily spent hours at. 

GRUB:

DOK

After a below average Italian meal the night before, this lovely restaurant was just what we needed. Specializing in prosciutto, they definitely proved their expertise to me. We shared the “DOK EXPERIENCE” which comprised of two dishes with varying ages/kinds of cured meats, accompanied by juicy melons, fresh burrata, and other friends of charcuterie. Holy deliciousness…I licked my plate clean. Also, I sipped on the most perfectly smooth red wine. One that was worthy for a write-down in my notes.

As for the service, it was pretty slow-moving, but only because it was short-staffed…maybe they didn’t expect a big turn-out in shoulder season. Regardless, there was only two servers taking orders, pouring drinks, and expediting food to a packed restaurant. I’ve worked in more restaurants than I can count and I was actually blown away by their speed and efficiency in the face of a really flustering situation. This skill mixed with the fantastic food made for a noteworthy experience!