A little different from my typical post, this is an extended version of my entry into the World Nomads 2017 Writing Scholarship–detailing my trek up Mt. Batur to catch the sunrise. I’ll win next year, but no reason not to share :)!
The guttural cry of the alarm clock jolts us from sleep. 2:15 AM. Through our hotel window, a pitch black curtain drapes over the sky and one could see that Ubud was still fast asleep. Why in the world did we sign up for this? As a card-carrying night owl, the mere idea of a morning person upsets me. Yet, I can’t bring myself to indulge in my long-standing love affair with the snooze button.
Exactly 15 minutes later, the roaring engine from a van cut through our sleepy street. “Good Morning! Are you ready to climb a volcano?”
After a bumpy ride through the outskirts of Ubud and into the villages surrounding Mt. Batur, we arrive at the Kintamani trailhead. We can just make out our guide Ketut in the moonlight. His FC Barcelona hat is tipped just high enough for the moonlight to reveal youthful eyes and an enthusiastic smile in honor of our upcoming adventure. While sizing him up, we should’ve made the connection that his colossal calves served as warning that the local ranking of this “Medium Difficulty” hike is more accurately classified at an “Am I Going to Die?” level.
Although the moon hangs bright at the start of our trek, tangles of spindly trees forbid the light to trespass. Our flashlights stand in the way of complete blackness. Their beams power into the night, onto snake-like roots that criss-cross our path. An otherwise gentle incline aids us in adjusting to our new reality.
After clearing the tree-tops of the forest, we are met with a sudden, steep ascent. Up and over volcanic rocks, labored breathing and self-doubt join our group of three. Our heightened heart rates welcome breaks to wipe the sweat from our brows and unlock our eyes from the chaotic trail ahead. These moments of refuge force us to break focus and revel in the vast magnificence that surrounds us. Millions of stars burn through the night and we watch their glimmering war against the darkness.
We navigate through this ebb and flow cycle for two hours and finally reach the summit just before dawn. The twinkling lights from villages 1,717 meters below validate the height of our accomplishment. Pride fills the air as we reminisce about the journey up.
Then, as if in rhythm with the rising sun, our chatter fades. In awe, we witness as Bali surrenders to the radiance of the morning. The brilliant glow of daybreak creeps up behind the bordering mountains, sending golden ribbons into the sky and painting the clouds with shades of saffron and cotton candy. The sweeping beauty of the caldera is illuminated as aureate light dances on the aluminum rooftops and vibrant colors reflect off the silky waters of Lake Batur. The scene before us demands our presence, inviting a constant flow of new angles and perspective.
In this very moment, against everything I believe, I give a nod to the early risers of the world.
Pushing the authenticity envelope even further, Ketut led us to a cove where we placed food into a rocky nook. We watched as the steam from the volcano boil eggs and toast bread to ready our nomadic breakfast.
And now that sunshine ruled the land, we strolled along the crater and explored the sweeping views. At one point, we were greeted by a different kind of local…furry ones. A wild monkey family! It was clear that they were accustomed to visitors and especially welcoming to those with bananas. Traveling throughout the world, I’ve learned that countries (and individuals) differ greatly in their treatment towards animals. So, when I come face to face with unexpected animal interactions, I hope for the best, but prepare to feel unsettled. Luckily, while these monkeys may have been, in a sense, domesticated to the busy trail, they were clearly free and wild animals. This only emphasized the fact that nature was at play all around us. Witnessing a miniature newborn cling to it’s mother against the stunning backdrop of Mt. Agung was truly unreal.
If you do decide to embark on this adventure up Mt. Batur, we did witness multiple groups of people who had a bit too much fun in Kuta the night before or simply were not as physically fit turn around. While this may be a welcomed warning for some, it should also be a source of motivation for others because reaching the top after such a mentally and physically challenging feat feels incredible! We did ours through Bali Trekking Tours and highly recommend. Our guide was patient, fun, and most importantly…local!